The New Look episode 3 recap: Coco Chanel does the unthinkable in her darkest hour

Claes Bang as Spatz with Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) in The New Look episode 3
Spatz and Coco Chanel in The New Look. (Image credit: Apple TV+)

The New Look on Apple TV Plus is a remarkable story following the lives of renowned fashion designers Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) and Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) against the devastating backdrop of World War II. 

The third episode of the series sees Coco return from her fruitless trip to Madrid where she heads back to the Ritz and bumps into Spatz. The Nazis are packing up their belongings and leaving, and Spatz tells Coco he must go into hiding because the Allies are coming and it is no longer safe for him here. 

Coco is cross when Spatz says she will have to tell Schellenberg about her failed mission alone, but soon she finds she has bigger problems than being dumped by her lover when Pierre Reverdy calls and tells her that because of her dealings with the Nazis that she will now go on a list of Nazi collaborators unless she sells someone out to prove her loyalty to France. 

Meanwhile, Christian is still at a loss over how to help Catherine after hitting dead ends everywhere he goes. Hervé tells him he needs to find a way to blackmail a Nazi and to think of someone he knows with Nazi connections. He remembers the kindhearted Nazi girlfriend, Beatrice Schmidt, who knows Catherine and tracks down her address from Lucian Lelong's order book. But while she agrees to help, she admits it is going to cost him a huge amount of money. 

While Dior tries to get some cash together, Baron announces to Coco that Schellenberg has demanded to see her in Berlin, but she refuses. However, he points out that it's an order not a polite request. Coco arrives at the Nazi Intelligence Headquarters in Berlin and is rattled by Schellenberg's erratic behavior as he boasts about his soundproof torture chamber hidden behind a bookcase and the machine guns he has had built into his desk. He makes an indecent proposal to her and suggests they might have a future together if she stays with him in Germany. She refuses and when someone arrives for a meeting she uses the opportunity to make a swift exit, but not before Schellenberg tells her it was Spatz's job to woo her and seven other women in Paris as part of a mission to infiltrate Parisian high society. 

Christian asks his friend Cristobal for a loan, but he is broke and the only thing he has to offer is some fine Swiss chocolate that a neighbor has given him. Cristobal and Christian toast the liberation of Paris and Cristobal gives Christian the idea that he could get some of Lelong's expensive fabrics and sell those to make money to get information on Catherine. 

The New Look on Apple TV Plus sees Ben Mendelsohn play Christian Dior.

Christian is desperate to do whatever it takes to help Catherine.  (Image credit: Apple TV Plus)

At this moment we see Catherine, who has arrived at a concentration camp called Ravensbruck and while she is stripped of her clothes and her hair is cut off, she looks close to death as others are shot around her. 

Having been hurt by Spatz, Coco decides to sell him out and meets Reverdy and he tells her that they have been wanting to arrest Spatz for weeks and so if she can lead them to him, it might well save her. Coco tracks him down to a church where he has been hiding out and they spend another night together, however, it is all part of Coco's plan and, when he tells her he is leaving Paris that evening, she tries to get him to tell her where he is going so she can inform Reverdy, but he refuses. Spatz promises to wait for her if she goes home quickly to pack a bag. However, when Reverdy and his men get there, Spatz is gone. 

Christian, desperate for money, goes to Maison Lelong and steals fabric, but Lucian catches him red-handed. However, instead of being cross, he finds more fabric for Christian to sell and tells him to come back as he will always have a job there. Christian gets word of where to meet Beatrice and Franz, but Hervé demands to go with him, saying the Nazis can't be trusted and a Resistance friend drives them. However, after getting information about which camp Catherine is in, Franz refuses to say more until Christian gets more money, and Hervé's friend shoots Franz dead in front of a terrified Beatrice. Christian is devastated because they've just killed the one man who knew how to get information about Catherine. 

Ben Mendelsohn as Christian Dior.

Lelong catches Christina stealing from him. (Image credit: Apple TV Plus)

Knowing that Spatz tricked her, Coco realizes her time in Paris is limited and Barron begs her to pack a bag as they need to leave before they are arrested. Barron goes to get the car while she packs and promises to meet him in the street behind The Ritz. 

Christian is desperate now he has no new information on Catherine and Cristobal suggests the only other person they know with Nazi connections now is Chanel. They call, but the hotel is abandoned, so Christian goes to see her in person. When he arrives, the place is deserted now the Nazis have moved out, but when he finds Coco she refuses to help, trying to distance herself from any more involvement with the Nazis. 

Meanwhile, in the back street, Barron waits for her but is arrested, and we see she has sold him out to save herself. At the end of the episode, as the bells ring out across the city as the city is liberated, Coco hands out free perfume to the French soldiers to prove her loyalty to France, while a heartbroken Christian sobs alone in his house. 

The New Look is available to stream worldwide on Apple TV Plus.

Claire Crick
Assistant Managing Editor at What To Watch

Claire is Assistant Managing Editor at What To Watch and has been a journalist for over 15 years, writing about everything from soaps and TV to beauty, entertainment, and even the Royal Family. After starting her career at a soap magazine, she ended up staying for 13 years, and over that time she’s pulled pints in the Rovers Return, sung karaoke in the Emmerdale village hall, taken a stroll around Albert Square, and visited Summer Bay Surf Club in sunny Australia. 

After learning some tricks of the trade at websites Digital Spy, Entertainment Daily, and Woman & Home, Claire landed a role at What’s On TV and whattowatch.com writing about all things TV and film, with a particular love for Aussie soaps, Strictly Come Dancing and Bake Off

She’s interviewed everyone from June Brown — AKA Dot Cotton — to Michelle Keegan, swapped cooking tips with baking legend Mary Berry backstage at the NTAs, and danced the night away with soap stars at countless awards bashes. There’s not a lot she doesn’t know about soaps and TV and can be very handy when a soapy question comes up in a pub quiz! 

As well as all things soap-related, Claire also loves running, spa breaks, days out with her kids, and getting lost in a good book.