The New Look episode 4 recap: Christian Dior finally discovers Catherine's fate

John Malkovich as Lucien Lelong in The New Look episode 4
Lucien Lelong has a plan to restore hope to Paris after the war in The New Look episode 4. (Image credit: Apple TV Plus)

The New Look on Apple TV Plus is a remarkable story following the lives of renowned fashion designers Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn) and Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) against the devastating backdrop of World War II. 

The New Look episode 4 opens with Coco Chanel celebrating Paris being liberated from Nazi occupation after four long years, but as Coco drinks champagne with her nephew, Andre, his Cambridge friend Oscar Davies, and her famous actress friend, Arletty, things a more somber affair for Christian Dior. 

Still in the dark about his sister, Catherine's, fate after she was captured by the Nazis and taken to a prisoner-of-war camp, we find him at the start of episode 4 at a clairvoyant evening. 

We know from episode one that Dior believes in such things, but when he fails to have a reading, Madame Delahaye catches him as he is about to leave and says she sees someone he loves is trapped and also foresees him holding a baby. Christian knows nothing of a baby and leaves the event, but not before taking her card. 

Meanwhile, Arletty turns up at Coco's Ritz suite, terrified because the French Forces of the Interior (FFI) are at her apartment looking for her. While the Nazis might be gone, there is still danger for women in Paris with the FFI who have taken to shaving the heads of women who they believe were in collaboration with the Nazis during the war before marching them down the street with swastikas drawn on their heads. 

Arletty was known to have a German officer boyfriend during the war, and despite refusing to appear in any Nazi propaganda films, she knows it is only a matter of time before her love affair catches up with her. Coco is sympathetic but secretly thinks about her affair with Spatz and the circumstances of Barron's arrest, both of which Andre is still oblivious to. 

Soon Arletty is captured and despite being a world-famous actress, she is stripped and beaten in the street, while Coco is also arrested and taken in for questioning. The FFI know about her involvement with the Nazis but are struggling to find evidence... and soon she gets released after telling them her friend Churchill would be upset to know they are grilling her. 

But unfortunately for Coco, the FFI aren't going to let her go that easily. They set up Andre's friend Oscar, who is revealed to be working with MI6 to protect himself from the consequences of his own collaboration with the Nazis, to introduce her to Malcolm Muggeridge, a journalist for the London Telegraph who worked as a spy for the British government during the war. 

They plan to get Coco to incriminate herself in the interview, giving them evidence to charge her with collaborating with the Nazis, however, Oscar can't bring himself to put Coco and his friend Andre in danger and he ends up telling them what is happening so that they can flee Paris, before getting drunk and killing himself before he can be arrested. 

The New Look on Apple TV Plus sees Ben Mendelsohn play Christian Dior.

Dior designs for a Louvre exhibition.  (Image credit: Apple TV Plus)

Meanwhile. Lucian Lelong has a plan to revive hope in Paris and put French couture back on the map by putting together the Théâtre de la Mode, or 'Theatre of Fashion', a show to be held at the Louvre featuring French fashion designers. But there is a catch, with barely any fabric left in Paris after the Nazis burnt it all, instead of dressing real women, they would be making tiny dresses for doll-sized mannequins.

The designers of Masion Lelong get to work, but Christian's heart isn't in it as he continues to think about Catherine and whether she is even still alive. Before he can concentrate on designing, he knows he needs to go and visit his father, who is still in the dark about Catherine's ordeal.

He heads to a French village to see his father, who is understandably devastated by the news. However, he soon blames Christian, telling him he has let Catherine down by not keeping her safe and the pair argue. 

Coco and Andre flee the city before the FFI can catch up with them and we see them heading to the French countryside, while Dior is also making plans to leave the city, which is full of memories of Catherine. But as he packs up his apartment and goes to leave, he finds an abandoned baby on the steps of a church. We see him go to the baby and hold it while they wait for nuns to come, and suddenly he realizes that Madame Delahaye's premonition has come true.

Going to visit Madame Delahaye with a renewed belief, Christian asks her if Catherine is still alive. She tells him that Catherine will return one day, but that he needs to find his own life again. Realizing that he needs to throw himself back into his work, Christian returns to Paris and designs for the Louvre exhibition, which turns out to be a huge success, with Dior's creations receiving the most praise.

The New Look is available worldwide on Apple TV Plus. 

Claire Crick
Assistant Managing Editor at What To Watch

Claire is Assistant Managing Editor at What To Watch and has been a journalist for over 15 years, writing about everything from soaps and TV to beauty, entertainment, and even the Royal Family. After starting her career at a soap magazine, she ended up staying for 13 years, and over that time she’s pulled pints in the Rovers Return, sung karaoke in the Emmerdale village hall, taken a stroll around Albert Square, and visited Summer Bay Surf Club in sunny Australia. 

After learning some tricks of the trade at websites Digital Spy, Entertainment Daily, and Woman & Home, Claire landed a role at What’s On TV and whattowatch.com writing about all things TV and film, with a particular love for Aussie soaps, Strictly Come Dancing and Bake Off

She’s interviewed everyone from June Brown — AKA Dot Cotton — to Michelle Keegan, swapped cooking tips with baking legend Mary Berry backstage at the NTAs, and danced the night away with soap stars at countless awards bashes. There’s not a lot she doesn’t know about soaps and TV and can be very handy when a soapy question comes up in a pub quiz! 

As well as all things soap-related, Claire also loves running, spa breaks, days out with her kids, and getting lost in a good book.